We stopped for lunch that day halfway between Wise River and Divide. The river had changed its look and feel that morning. We were now in a canyon. There were really high rock walls around us and the water seemed to move with more speed and force. There were tons of fish.

After lunch, we pushed off down the river. It took all kinds of twists and turns as it went through a very tight canyon. I guess I must have been staring at the amazing canyon walls, or looking for elk and beavers, because the next thing I knew, we drifted right into some rocks.

We were stuck in a little eddy, a place where water pools together on the side of a river. No harm was done, but the way Layla looked at me it was like all her anger from before was back again.

By the time we unstuck ourselves, the other canoes were out of sight. I wasn’t worried, but, just like in the mountains when I ruined the map, I should have been. We floated down the river a little further but still couldn’t see anyone else. Then, this low gurgling, burbling sound I’d been hearing, started getting louder and louder. “What’s that?” I said.

“Duh, water?” said Layla. “Or maybe it’s Darmo coming to get you.” Like I said, I didn’t believe that stupid story, but I wished she would stop bringing it up. Darmo wasn’t real, but he sure was bad luck.

Anyway, it wasn’t Darmo, not yet anyway. Instead, it was something else. A big, rushing, churning slew of water coming at us.

Later, I found out it was a flash flood caused by rain in the mountains.

It wasn’t raining where we were. But all that rain in the mountains went rushing downhill, into streams and into the river and eventually down to us, picking up speed and force all the way. All I knew in the moment was that our peaceful little trip had suddenly turned into the roller coaster ride from your worst nightmare. It was the first time in my life that I was happy to be wearing a life jacket!

We tried to keep the canoe steady, but that flash flood water flipped us over like our boat was some insignificant twig. I managed to grab on to the canoe that was now floating upside down! Layla went under for a minute. The river was moving fast, so there was no time to think about what to do.